Cuetzalan

Why visit

Cuetzalan feels a world away from the city. The air is warm and damp, the hills are covered in cloud forest and coffee, and many people still speak Nahuatl. The town became one of Mexico’s first pueblos mágicos in 2002, and it has kept its character.

What to see

• The main square: on stepped terraces, with the tall clock tower of the parish church above it.
• The voladores: four men spin down on ropes from the top of a tall pole while a fifth plays a flute and drum on top, an ancient ritual performed in the churchyard, often at weekends.
• The Sunday market: people from the surrounding villages come to buy and sell coffee, fruit, spices and crafts.
• Yohualichan: pre-Hispanic pyramids with rows of niches, similar to those at El Tajín, a short drive from town.
• Waterfalls and caves: swimming holes and falls in the hills around town, and caves that can be explored with a local guide.
• The Church of the Dead: a small Gothic-style church above the cemetery, known for its many crows.

When to go

Rain and mist are common for much of the year, which keeps the hills green. Early October brings the Feria del Café y del Huipil, a fair celebrating coffee and the region’s embroidered blouses. Weekends are livelier, but also busier.

Tips

• The streets are steep and slippery when wet. Wear shoes with good grip and bring a rain jacket.
• Ask before you photograph people, especially at the market.
• If you can, stay a night. The town is at its most atmospheric in the evening and early morning.
• Read about other trips in our guide to the best day trips from Puebla.