Cuetzalan from Puebla: voladores, cloud forest and a Totonac pyramid

High in the green hills of the Sierra Norte de Puebla, Cuetzalan is a world away from the city. Its steep stone streets climb between red-tiled houses, mist often rolls in from the cloud forest, and the town is home to Nahua and Totonac communities who keep their language, dress and traditions alive. It is one of Mexico’s best-loved pueblos mágicos and a memorable trip from Puebla.

Day trip or overnight?

Cuetzalan is about 180 km north-east of Puebla, and the winding mountain road takes about three and a half to four hours each way. A day trip is possible with a tour, but it is a long day. If you can, stay one or two nights: the town is lovely in the evening, and you will have time for the waterfalls and the pyramids.

Getting there

• By tour: the easiest choice, with transport, a guide and usually Yohualichan and a waterfall included.
• By bus: direct buses run from Puebla’s CAPU bus station. Check times the day before, as there are only a few departures.
• By car: the roads are good but curvy, and fog is common in the afternoon. Avoid driving after dark.

What to see

The main square and the voladores

The heart of town is the zócalo, on terraces above the hills. Below it, in the atrium of the church of San Francisco, the voladores perform their ancient ritual: four men tied by ropes spin slowly to the ground from the top of a tall pole, while a fifth plays a flute and drum on top. The ceremony, recognised by UNESCO as intangible heritage, is usually performed at weekends and on festival days.

The Sunday market

On Sundays, people from the surrounding villages come into town for the market, selling coffee, fruit, flowers, embroidered blouses and pottery. It is the most colourful day to visit.

Yohualichan

About 8 km from town, the archaeological site of Yohualichan has stepped pyramids decorated with rows of niches, in a style similar to the great city of El Tajín in Veracruz. It is quiet, green and rarely crowded.

Waterfalls and caves

The hills around Cuetzalan are full of rivers, waterfalls and caves. Local guides lead walks to waterfalls such as Las Brisas, and into caves near the town. Paths are often muddy, so bring good shoes.

What to eat and drink

Try tlayoyos, thick corn cakes filled with beans or peas, local coffee grown in the hills, and the sweet fruit liqueurs sold in shops around the square. For more on the cooking of the region, see what to eat in Puebla.

When to go

Cuetzalan is green all year because it rains a lot, especially in summer. In early October, the town celebrates its patron saint, Saint Francis, together with the Feria del Café y del Huipil, with dances, voladores and processions. Book accommodation early for this time and for holiday weekends.

Tips

• Pack a rain jacket: showers and fog can come at any time.
• Wear grippy shoes: the cobbled streets are steep and slippery when wet.
• Bring cash: small shops and market stalls rarely take cards.
• More trips: compare Cuetzalan with Atlixco and others in our guide to the best day trips from Puebla.