Visiting Cholula: the Great Pyramid, the hilltop church and the town

Cholula is the perfect half-day trip from Puebla. It has the largest pyramid in the world by volume, a yellow church on top with one of the best views in Mexico, and a relaxed town full of cafés, bars and bell towers. It is about 12 km west of central Puebla.

Getting there

An Uber or taxi from the historic centre of Puebla takes about 30 minutes, longer at rush hour. Local buses also run between the two, and many tours combine Cholula with Puebla or the volcanoes.

The Great Pyramid

The Great Pyramid of Cholula, called Tlachihualtépetl, “the man-made mountain”, was built in stages over about a thousand years, each new layer covering the last. Grass and trees grew over it, and today it looks like a hill.

• The archaeological zone: excavated plazas, stairways and altars on the south and west sides, with a small museum across the road.
• The tunnels: archaeologists dug about 8 km of tunnels through the pyramid. A short section is sometimes open to visitors.
• Opening times: check the website of INAH, Mexico’s archaeology institute, before you go.

The church on top

A stone path and steps lead up to the Sanctuary of Our Lady of Remedies, built from 1594 on the summit of the pyramid. The climb is steep but short, and the church is free to enter. From the top, the town spreads out below, Puebla lies to the east, and on a clear morning the snowy cone of Popocatépetl rises to the west.

The town

Cholula is really two towns, San Pedro and San Andrés, which meet at the pyramid. In San Pedro, the main square has one of the longest arcades in Mexico, lined with cafés. Facing it is the Franciscan convent of San Gabriel, with its Royal Chapel, topped by dozens of small domes. Legend says Cholula has a church for every day of the year. That is an exaggeration, but you will see bell towers in every direction.

The painted churches nearby

• Santa María Tonantzintla: a village church whose interior is covered in painted plaster: saints, angels, fruit and flowers, made by local craftsmen. Photography inside is not allowed.
• San Francisco Acatepec: a church with a facade covered in Talavera tiles, a few minutes further south.

Tips

• Go early for the clearest view of the volcano. Clouds often build by midday.
• Wear good shoes for the climb to the church.
• Stay for the evening if you can. Cholula has a lively bar scene, thanks to its university students.
• Around 21 March, crowds climb the pyramid to celebrate the spring equinox.