Cholula and the Great Pyramid

Why visit

The pyramid known as Tlachihualtépetl, the “man-made mountain”, was built and rebuilt in at least six stages, each new pyramid covering the last. By the time the Spanish arrived in 1519 it was overgrown, and they built the Sanctuary of Our Lady of Remedies on its summit. Today the church, with the snow-capped volcanoes behind it, is one of the most photographed views in Mexico.

What to see

• The archaeological zone: excavated plazas, stairways and altars on the south and west sides of the pyramid, with a small site museum across the road.
• The tunnels: archaeologists dug about 8 km of tunnels through the pyramid from the 1930s, and a short stretch is sometimes open to visitors.
• The church on top: a steep walk up a stone path and steps, free to enter, with views of the town, Puebla and, on a clear morning, Popocatépetl.
• San Pedro Cholula: the main square, with one of the longest arcades in Mexico, cafés and the great Franciscan convent of San Gabriel.
• Tonantzintla and Acatepec: two village churches nearby, one with a riot of painted plaster saints inside, the other with a facade covered in Talavera tiles.

A church for every day?

Legend says Cholula has a church for every day of the year. The real number is far lower, but domes and bell towers rise in every direction, and almost every neighbourhood has its own festival.

Tips

• Check opening days and times on the website of INAH, Mexico’s archaeology institute, before you go.
• Climb to the church early for the clearest view of the volcano. Clouds often build by midday.
• Uber and taxis from central Puebla take about 30 minutes, longer in traffic.
• Read our full guide to visiting Cholula.